You will need to jack up the rear of the car to install the sway bar. We highly recommend using jack-stands to support the weight of the car. Keep the car in gear and use tire wedges to prevent the car from rolling forward. The e-brake is a moot point as the rear tires will be off the ground. ;-) If you have access to a lift, that obviously makes things a little easier. These first few pictures simply show the stock setup, mount brackets and end-links.

The end-link mount points are actually on the rear side of the trailing arm, behind the strut. A 14mm wrench and 14mm socket driver (or second 14mm wrench) will be needed to remove the bar from the end-links. There is no need to separate the end-link from the trailing arm.

It is recommended that you remove the brackets first, as that will relieve the pressure on the end-links. Using a 14mm socket (a deep-well or 3" extension simplifies the process), remove the single bolt from each bracket. The brackets will tilt forward from the top. Pry them off the bushing, and slide them out of the lower slot. Keep the 2 bolts, brackets, and bushings if you ever intend to put the stock bar back on the car. With both brackets removed, the bar will be hanging loose, held only by the end-links.

To remove the bar from the end-links, use a 14mm wrench to secure the inner bolt behind the sway bar and 14mm socket to loosen the outer nut. Remove the nut from both end-links. With the 2 main brackets loose, you can remove bar from the end-links pretty easily. Remove both and slide the bar out from under the car.

Place the bushings that came with the Addco bar around the bar in the same place the stock bushings were located so they will line up with the mount points. Slide the new bar into position. The bar will angle out and down to the end-links, matching the path of the stock bar.

Before attaching the mounting brackets, re-attach the end-links first - they are extremely difficult to attach if the mounts are already in place. Loosely attach the nut using the 14mm wrench and socket the same way you removed them.

It is recommended that you use a lubricant on the bushings to help prevent any squeaking. 3SX carries Wurth HHS 2000 which is a great lubricant that will not degrade the rubber bushings, but provide long-term lubrication as it turns to a grease once applied. We recommend this or some other bushing grease.

Push the bar up so the bushings are in place, resting where the stock bushings were, centered on the mount frame.

Insert one of the bolts through the long "flat" bracket, with the smaller lifted part at the bottom and bending forward. The bolt should go from back to front.

Slide the bracket all the way up through so it is visible from the top and bottom, but is BEHIND the stock mount frame. Insert the second bolt in the top hole, from back to front.

Place the small flat bracket piece on the top bolt, with the hole toward the top and the longer section coming down and resting behind the top part of the bushing.

Place the outer curved bracket over the bushing and two bolts, pushing the bolts forward and through the bracket.

Place the washers over the bolts and the nuts on the bolts until they start to lock - finger tight.

You will need two 14mm wrenches or one 14mm wrench and a 14mm socket (deep well or with an extension). Place your 14mm wrench on the top bolt head on the back side of the bracket to secure the bolt, and begin to tighten the nut down with the second wrench. Do not tighten the nut completely.

Now slide the wrench on the bolt head down to the bottom bolt and put it on the lower bolt head - you have to secure the lower bolt from from the top, sliding it down behind the mount frame. Tighten the lower nut.

Repeating the same tightening process, now ensure both nuts are tightly secured.

Be sure to securely tighten the end-link nuts. Now you are finished. Lower the car back the jack stands and take it out for a spin (not literally! :-)