You will need to jack up the front of the car to install the sway bar. We highly recommend using jack-stands to support the weight of the car. Make sure the e-brake is secured to prevent the car from rolling. If you have access to a lift, that obviously simplifies things.

Before you start going after the sway bar, you do have to remove the downpipe (front pipe) and support runners on the underside of the car. The car pictured is a 1993 Federal-spec car with only a main catalytic converter. For later California-spec cars, you do not have to remove the small "pre-cats", you can just remove the pipe where it joins with the pre-cats and the main cat. As always, use caution when removing/unplugging the O2 sensors so as not to damage them.

Start by removing the 2 bolts holding the downpipe to the front manifold. Remove the 2 bolts holding the downpipe to the rear manifold (or pre-cat on Cali-spec cars).

The O2 sensor uses a 22mm wrench. Realistically you don't have to remove them from the pipe unless you are also upgrading the downpipe (the downpipe and swaybar are commonly upgraded together as they share labor). If you are using the same downpipe and only upgrading the sway bar, then you do not need to remove the O2 sensors from the pipes, you can simply unplug them (pictured later).

Remove the bolts holding the downpipe to the main catalytic converter, and the nut on the support hanger on the side of the pipe.

If you pull the O2 sensor wire (on Fed-spec cars) going up through the floor, the grommet will pop out and a few inches in is a harness - you can simply unplug the harness to complete removing the downpipe. Note that Cali-spec cars do not have an O2 sensor back by the main cat, but up near the front pre-cat.

The front sway bar mounts against the back side of the sub-frame and reaches through to the front side of the main lower control arms, going just under the half-shafts.

Remove the bolts for the support runners.

To remove the end-links, you need to hold the nut on the inside of the backet with a 14mm wrench, and use a socket or wrench to remove the outer nut. We separated the endlinks from the brackets on the control arms, leaving the endlinks attached to the swaybar and swapping the endlinks with the swaybars out of the car.

Remove the support runner from the driver side as well. This will reveal the driver side sway bar bracket.

With the support runners out of the way, you can easily remove the two brackets (4 bolts total) holding the bar in place.

Once both brackets are removed, and both end-links unbolted, you should be able to get the bar out. If it refuses to come out, follow the next few steps to remove the main control arm bolt (which will be needed to get the new bar installed anyway).

Using the same dual wrench process, remove the endlinks from the stock bar and install them on the new bar.

For installing the new sway bar, we found it worked best to remove the inner front bolt on the main lower control arm. We started by dropping the whole hub assembly from the strut. In hindsight, it may be possible to only have to drop the inner part of the lower main control arm, not removing the 2 bolts that hold the hub to the strut. The next few steps involve removing the hub from the strut.

Start by removing the driver side wheel.

With the wheel removed, you need to loosen the brake lines from the strut. This does not involve separating the brake lines, simply removing them from where they are secured to the strut. There is one nut on the outside and one bolt on the inside.

Remove the bolt that holds the brake line against the inside of the strut. Removing these prevents any undue stresses on the brake lines and fittings.

There are two bolts that hold the hub to the strut. The upper bolt controls camber - using a paint marker or some other means of indicating the setting, mark the bolt. You want to mark the bolt so you get it back to the same angle it is curretly at. Of course, since you are changing your suspension, it would be best to get an alignment after you are finished.

Remove the two nuts on the back side of the strut. The bolts will now slide out forward - you may have to tap them with a hammer to get them started, or jiggle the hub assembly to slide them out. With both bolts removed, the hub assembly will slide out of the strut bracket and hang down.

Next, remove the nut on the front inner bolt holding the main lower control arm. You may need to use a hammer to lightly tap that bolt toward the back to slide it out. Slide the bolt out toward the rear.

With the bolt removed, the control arm can now be lowered, leaving a gap to slide the new sway bar through. Position the bar so the ends angle down, and the hump in the middle points up. The ends will go toward the front. Slide the passenger side up through the control arm below the axle so the endlink is near its mounting bracket. Angle the driver side forward and down a little so it will slide between the control arm and sub-frame.

Slide the bar toward the driver side between the control arm and sub-frame. Now both ends of the bar should be positioned near their mounting points, and the bar should go up into place where it mounts to the back side of the sub-frame.

Lift the control arm back up into position and tap the bolt back through. Tighten the nut back onto the control arm bolt. The sway bar should now be resting in place.

Reattach the hub assembly to the strut. Lift it up until the hub lines up with the strut, slide the bolts through - some jiggling and hammer-tapping may be required to get the bolts through. Tighten the lower nut in place, then position the top bolt so the indicator lines you marked earlier are lined up and tighten the upper bolt. Reattach the brake lines to the front and back sides of the strut.

Connect the end-links between the swaybar and mounts on the main lower control arms. You should attach these before attaching the main brackets to the sub-frame.

You may want to leave the nuts loose for the time being so you have a little more flexibility. Just be sure to tighten them all before lowering the car off the jack stands and driving the car.

Place the new bushings over the swaybar. We recommend lubricating them with a bushing lubricant/grease like HHS2000 we carry or some other quality lubricant. Place the new brackets over the bushings and use the stock bolts to attach the bracket to the sub-frame. It works easiest if you put both lubricated bushings on first before clamping down one side, then start both sides before tightening things into place.

With everything tightened, the bracket will form to the sub-frame - it's at a bit of an angle, not a flat plane.

Once both brackets are tightened, make sure the end-links are tightened to both the bar and control arm. This completes the installation of the swaybar.

Now you just have to put the wheel back on the car, reinstall the two support runners on the underside, and reinstall the downpipe. Remember to connect any O2 sensors you disconnected or the car will run rough.